Category Archives for "Windows & Doors"
Our first project is going to be hanging a door. Make sure you purchase the correct size door for the frame. Place the door in the frame. Most doors need minor alterations to get a good fit. Using two small wedges, lift the door off the floor. A 2-millimeter gap is required between the door and the frame. You can use a quarter to gauge the gap. Then, mark the inside of the door for any planing down.
Next, plane down to the pencil mark. When planing timber, only plane with the grain and never across it. Try the door at intervals so a good fit can be achieved.
Now rub the planed edge down with a medium grain glass paper. Mark the position of the hinges onto the door next. Square this across with a setsquare. Now place the hinge onto the door and draw around it with a pencil. Next you want to measure the hinge and transfer half this measurement onto the door. This is the depth at which the hinge will need to be set into the door.
Now this area of the door needs to be removed with a chisel. When using this, make sure that the flat edge or bottom is used to cut into the timber. This will give you a good straight clean edge. Also never use a hammer, only a wooden mallet.
Once the perimeter has been cut, turn the chisel over and mark off small areas to be removed. Now don’t try to cut it all out in one piece and remove small shavings of the timber. Continue this chopping until the depth you marked and then give the hinge a try. Mark the position of the screw holes onto the door with a pencil. Drill some small pilot holes because now you can fit the hinge. Why drill the pilot holes? This will stop the door from splitting when you screw on the hinge. Of course, repeat the same process with the other hinge.
Replace the door back into the frame with the hinges fitted. Mark the position of the hinge onto the doorframe this time. We will use the split pin variety of hinges, which are easy to dismantle. This is important because it allows us to easily mark the location of the hinge dimensions onto the doorframe. Mark around the edge of the hinge. Remove the marked area with a chisel and the chopping method as you did on the door. Fix half of the hinge onto the doorframe. Lift the door into place, lining up the two halves of the hinge. Replace the hinge pins and test the door.
This was a bit long to put all in one article, so we broke it into two. If you missed the first part, you can go here to catch up.
What I do is I measure the existing window, I’ll measure the width, I’ll hook the tape right over on the outside of the edge of the window frame. Come right over to this side, right to the outside. This window right now measures sixty-four inches right on. Usually, what I do is subtract one eighth of an inch, just to give you that little extra room. Your saw blade, when you make you cut tight, is going to free up basically an eighth of an inch all the way around anyways, but I always take an eighth inch off just to be sure that it’s going to fit the opening without too much extra cutting.
So we’ve got sixty-four inches on the width so what I am going to request is sixty-three and seven eights. You could get away with exactly what this one measures, because of the fact that you are cutting around the perimeter, but it’s nice to have just a little bit of room extra. To get the height, I’m going to hook, same thing, right on the top of the window measure right down to the bottom, to the outside and this one measures thirty-two inches. Again, I am going to take an eight of an inch off that, so I’ve got three one seven eights. I am going to draw myself a nice little picture here; homeowner would like to go back to the same style of window, which right here we’ve got a fixed window and an awning.
So I am just going to draw a crude little picture again, viewed from the outside and I even made a note of that so I don’t forget or the other person doesn’t realize. So this is viewed from the outside, I don’t know if you can really see it, I’ve drawn it looking like kind of two windows and because this one is an awning, I’m going to draw a little dotted line, almost like an arrow head up, facing the top – that’s just indicating that’s where it’s hinged, so they know that it flips on the bottom, hinge on the top. That just helps you remember too, once you measured all the windows, you might forget which ones are which.
We’ve got one window and this particular one here is a den, so we’re going to mark it off as den, quantity of one, I’ve got the measurement and I got my little picture, and I will just continue on doing that all the way around the house. We also determined already that the thickness of this wall structure is five and a half plus half inch plywood on the outside, plus half inch drywall on the inside so we’ve got a total of six and a half inches and that’s our jam depth. That would be important too, they’ll want to know that. Okay. I don’t think there is too much more to really explain, we’ll hopefully be shooting a video soon, showing you exactly how we pull these windows out and install a new one. Then you’ll know completely how to do the job from start to finish.
If your supplier will come and measure for you-always a good thing, because then if they screw up, they’ve got to stand behind that window or they should be standing behind the window, making sure that is corrected. That is one liability, if you supply them with the measurements and something is wrong, you might be stuck with a window or two that doesn’t fit what you need and you will have to reorder. So if they will come out and measure, get them to do that, even if they charge you fifty bucks or whatever, it will be worth it. If you are going through somebody or you might be in a remote area where they are not willing to come and do that, at least now you know how to order this window.
Now the other thing worth mentioning is, to replace this window, I can’t use a nailing flange now, because we’re not planing on disturbing the exterior finish, so I’ve got to go to a window that has a brick mold, which is a wider frame, usually I like to go to what around here is called the two inch renovation brick mold and that will just reassure that everything fits the hole, we don’t have to mess around re-cutting the siding again or the stucco. You could pull the old window out, put the new one in; sometimes, depending exactly how the window opening is framed, the actual stud work is framed, you might have to decrease the size you rough open a little bit. But these are all things that is going to save you a lot of time messing around on the long run.
You’re going to want a renovation brick mold, usually a two inch, to replace this type of installation. If we are removing the siding anyways, what I would do is pull the inside, trim off the window, measure the actual rough opening, that’s the framing opening of the house and take that to the window supplier and they can determine all the measurements from that. But, in this case, we are not removing the exterior finish, so this is the best way to do it. I hope this was as clear as mud and it’s going to make sense.
Today we’re going to discuss how to measure your existing windows in your home, so that if you want to replace them or get a quote on new windows, you could take those numbers to a supplier and quote them up.
Generally you’ve got two thicknesses of walls to start with. You usually have either a 2×4 framed wall or a 2×6 framed wall. So, if you have a 2×6 framed wall like we have in this home, you’ve got your 2×6 framing, which is actually five and a half inches wide, you are going to have in this age of home, you are going to have half inch plywood on the outside and you are going to have half inch drywall on the inside, for a total of six and a half inches in depth, so that actually be your wall thickness. That’s an important part that your windows supplier is going to want to know. So you are going to need that measurement.
Depending on the age of your home, this can vary a little bit because if you have a home that’s built before the 50s or even some of the 60s have three quarter inch shiplap on the outside, instead of half inch plywood. So you need to determine a little bit exactly how your home is constructed before you can make that decision. A little bit of investigation work, look at the year of your home, some of the products you used, there could be, if it’s an older home, lath and plaster on the inside, instead of half inch drywall. That could vary anywhere from half an inch to an inch, just depending how or who put it on. There is some variables you need to consider for the width.
Once you determine that, another way of doing would be, if you opened up your window, I got a window here, we’re going to pop the screen out. So, if you can determine a distance from the outside of your window frame to where your sheeting or your plywood should start and put a little mark here, then you should be able to measure from that mark into here where the back side of your trim is and that will also give you that same measurement. A little trick to do, but if you are a little bit uncertain, it might be the best way to go, just to double confirm what you think is going on there.
That pretty much is all you need to do from the inside. I am going to show you how to do it, measure everything from the outside. In this case, we are trying to fit in to an existing exterior finish, which here is a next ninety type wood-siding. The homeowner isn’t wanting to disturb that siding anymore than necessary, so we want to fit into that hole that we cut when we removed the window and that being said, that’s going to mean, we’ll probably have a little more space in here, where the insulation is behind the trim than there is right now, but we’d rather have that than have it not fit in the hole or have to cut excess siding or if you had stuck a wall, you don’t want to cut anymore than you have to of that.
Again, what we’re doing is we’re going to go outside, show you where to measure from and I’ll explain a little bit the reasoning for that, once we are out there it might be easier to show you. Okay. One of the things to also have with you is a piece of paper to write down everything that you’re recording for measurements. It’s handy to have a little bit of information, maybe pre-written on their, what room you are measuring, how many of that particular size you need, and a spot where you can put the width and the height as well.
Something that can be helpful is drawing a little picture viewed from the outside, so that you know, who you are talking to, you know which side is going to open or how is going to open and it will help them visualize exactly what you are wanting. What we’ve got here is aluminum clad window from early nineties to middle nineties and this style window is installed with a nailing flange. That nailing flange is also aluminum and is actually behind the siding or stucco, whichever you’ve got on your home. So you can actually see it or get out of it to pull the nails or screws out.
What you would have to do to remove this window is set your saw blade depth on your circular saw and run it around the exterior of the window, so that you are cutting through the cocking, the siding or the stucco or whatever is there and through that aluminum flange.
You don’t want to cut too far in and cut the plywood wide open, but you got to kind of figure that out and run the saw around there, staying close to the window so you are not cutting the opening too large. Once you’ve done that, it’s a matter of removing the inside trim, blinds, all that stuff and the window should slide out relatively easy.
OK, we’re going to chop this process into a couple of articles, so stay tuned for Part 2 coming soon. But don’t rush us! ;0)