Category Archives for "Home Appliances"
Don’t you hate it when you’re ready for a nice, cold drink and your refrigerator refuses to give you any ice cubes? In this article, we’ll be looking at dealing with a refrigerator repair with Las Vegas Appliance Masters (http://lasvegasappliancemasters.com) to help us get our ice maker working again.
Complaints: The icemaker no longer producing ice.
Diagnosis: Cutting Grid is not operating properly. There is a break in the wire of the cutting grid. Therefore the cutting Grid needs to be replaced.
Warning – Before beginning any repairs always disconnect the power to the appliance. It is also recommended to test the outlet for proper voltage. Remember to also turn off the water.
Tools needed: ¼” Nut driver and ¼” Socket and Ratchet.
Removing the Grid Cutter (2313637)
To access the cutting grid the first thing you want to do is to remove the two ¼” screws on the cover piece. Then we are just going to go ahead and slide the cover off. Right at the front will be our cutting grid, and as you can see the broken wire.
The first thing we are going to do is to go ahead and disconnect the power connector for the grid. The power connector for the grid is two black wires. And we have two screws at the side, so we are going to go ahead and remove the screws.
We are now going to disconnect the harness for the temperature sensor. Just to get that out of the way. Then we are just going to go ahead and take the grid out. There is also a harness on the back side, disconnect it and then go ahead and remove the grid.
Now we are going to go ahead and remove the classic sleeve, for the old unit and insert it onto the cutting grid of the new grid and that is inserted into the right hand side.
Installing the new Grid Cutter (2313637)
Slide it into the slut and attach the harness on the back side that needs to be reconnected. Make sure that the wiring runs on the outside of the cutting grid. You don’t want the wire to touch the cutting grid. Then you can go ahead and insert the long screws, that is the one the goes in with the sleeve, put both half way in with your hand first, then use the ratchet to finish screwing in the screws.
You don’t want to over tighten the screws because they are going into plastic. Then we are going to go ahead and capture the bin sensor harness and then make sure your wiring stays on the outside of the cutting grid. Then we are going to connect the harness for the cutting grids itself, make sure that it is position off to the side and put the cover back on. Get this started by hand, put screws in half way then tightened.
The icemaker was turned off, so go ahead and turn the power back on. At this point the water is filling up, it will just have to run some cold water over the unit to freeze the ice cubes and then it is going to dump it over the cutting grid. The cutting grid should cut the cubes and this should drop into the bottom. So that is going to complete our repair.
As with any repair, be sure you unplug the appliance before beginning. Your first step is to remove the screws at the rear of the control panel to release it. Next open the dryer door and remove the screws inside the door frame which secure the main top. Carefully unhook the control panel tabs from the mail top and lift up the top and remove. Uninstall the screws, securing the front panel.
Lift the front panel up and rotate it to the side. Remove the screw or screws, securing the sides of the cabinet to the support panel. Reach under the drum and push the idler pulley to release the tension on the belt, then unthread the belt from the pulley and motor shaft. Use the belt to help lift out the drum. Next disconnect the motor wire harness as well as the belt switch wires.
Disconnect the power cord connector and the door wires before you start any kind of repair. If applicable, move the switch guard out of the way. After noting their position, disconnect the door switch wires. Now feed the wires through the support panel. Remove the screws, securing the motor grounding wire. Next remove the screws, securing the cycling thermostat and move the thermostat out of the way (you can learn more about replacing appliance parts from our friends at Appliance Masters by clicking here: http://appliancerepairtucsonaz.org).
Uninstall the screws on the back of the motor mounting bracket and the screws at the front of the support panel. Move the wires out of the way, slide the blower wheel and motor assembly out of the housing and detach the idler arm. Now remove the blower wheel and motor from the cabinet and set it on a sturdy surface. Use pliers to secure the motor shaft as you rotate the blower wheel counterclockwise to remove.
Be aware, this may require some effort. Now remove the screws from the front bracket. Use a flat head screwdriver to remove the rear mounting clip. Noting the orientation of the old motor, remove it from the mounting bracket. You are now ready to install the new motor. Correctly position the new motor on the mounting bracket. Snap the rear mounting clip into place and secure the screws in the front bracket.
Replace the blower wheel by threading a clockwise onto the motor shaft. Secure the shaft as you tighten the wheel. Return the motor and blower wheel assembly to the cabinet. Reattach the idler arm and slide the assembly into the housing. Confirm that the idler arm correctly activates the belt switch. Feed the wires back into position. Replace the screws securing the assembly to the support panel and the one securing it to the mounting bracket.
Replace the screw to secure the grounding wire. Position the cycling thermostat on the blower housing and secure the screw. Feed the door wiring harness through the support panel. Reconnect the door switch wires. Reposition the switch guard if necessary and reconnect the door wire connector. Reconnect the power cord connector. Reconnect the belt switch wires and the motor wire harness.
Replace the drum in the cabinet by aligning the drum shaft and bearing with the bearing retainer on the rear panel. Reach under the drum and thread the belt onto the pulley and motor shaft in a zigzag formation. Now rotate the drum to help align the belt. Replace the screw or screws, securing the sides of the cabinet to the support panel. Reposition the front panel by first aligning the tabs in the base with the slots in the panel.
Now lift up the drum and snap the front panel into place. Secure the screws. Replace the mail top by aligning the slots in the top with the tabs on the frame, then reinstall the screws in the door frame to secure. Reposition the control panel by inserting the tabs into the slots at the back of the main top. Replace the screws in the back to secure. You are now ready to plug the power cord back in and confirm that the appliance is functioning properly.
I’ve got an excellent product if you are looking for long lasting way to remove odors from your refrigerator that comes from a really reliable source – my good friends at Austin Appliance Masters www.austinappliancemasters.com who spend a lot to time with their heads inside of refrigerators, so they definitely can appreciate the benefits of a good odor control solution.
The product they recently told me about is called Moso Natural. It’s a hundred percent charcoal from bamboo, so it’s safe on food, pets, kids and what’s interesting is this will remove odors from your refrigerator for two years and also excess moisture.
And very easy to apply, it comes with a little suction cup and you just stick it to the inside of the fridge and it’s that easy. It takes up very little room and it’s going to last for two years. And what’s interesting is that you can actually take this out of the fridge and put it in direct sunlight for about an hour once a month or so and it will revitalize the charcoal inside.
After two years you can just draw the date on the tag on the side of the bag and after two years you can cut it open and put it into your garden and it’s very healthy for plants. So it’s a great little product, you can pick it up at your local hardware store and if they don’t have it, they can order it for you.
Today we have here a Kenmore washing machine, this is a limited edition Kenmore type washer, and the complaint is that it will fill with water and then after it fills with water, it does nothing, it won’t agitate and also will not go into a spin cycle. We’re going to have a look at seeing exactly what’s wrong and what we can do to get things working right again.
So the tools needed for this repair are a multi meter and a Philips Screwdriver. The first thing that we’re going to do here is open up our console; take a look inside, along with our techsheet (another resource you can turn to if you need help with this kind of appliance diagnostic or repair is: http://lasvegasappliancemasters.com – they’re always super helpful). To do that, we are going to remove the Philip’s screws from the console, and our console then we can pull forward on the console and lift it up out of the cabinet, it’s on a hinge or it’s hinged so we just flip the console back like that and it shows all of our console parts here. This is where you’ll find your tech sheet which was right here.
The tech sheet has some good troubleshooting diagnostic steps so on this one here, what we have is, this problem, in the tech sheet, washer will not start. There’s also another one for, washer will not agitate or spin, you can go through either one of these. Either one that you go through should get you to the same scenario, the same part on this particular case here.
So if we follow the steps here, basically we’re going to use our multi meter and it says to, check for hundred and twenty volts between pin one and pin two on the RP3 of the transformer relay assembly, this is our transformer relay assembly, we’re going to plug back in RP2 connecter here and what we’re going to do then is to check for that hundred and twenty volts AC. Set the meter to voltage and that was pin one and pin two of the R3, this is our R3, our RP3 connection on pin one, two, one is starting at the top.
Just going to be black and white wires and we do have a hundred and twenty volts there so it’s kind of a flowchart on where to go if we have correct voltage. So after we check that for correct voltage, we’re going to check, now it wants us to check between pin one, RP3 and pin five of the RP1 connection so we’re going to go, pin one of the RP3 which was our white wire here and pin five on our RP1. On our RP1 connection which is down here, bottom one here so we’re going to go to the fifth connection, which is the last one, grey wire with, just a grey wire there.
So before what we need to do, and what is says at the very beginning here is, before we start checking any of this is depressed any one of the cycle selector paths. So back on the front of this, if we go to our cycle selector, we can select any one of these so I’m just going to put it on to a spin cycle here and we’ll continue testing.
So we’re back on, let’s see here, so we’re going back to the…that gray wire on the RP1 connection and we’re on the pin one of RP3 and we’re checking for hundred and twenty volts there. Which we do have so then, it says if the correct voltage is there, to check for seventeen to twenty one volts AC between pin one and pin two of the RP2 connection on our transformer relay assembly here, so we’re going to go to RP2 which is a small connection here, kind of a ribbon cable connection here and we’re going from pin one to pin two and we’re checking for volts, AC voltage here, so pin one, pin two and I am getting on my multi meter kind of voltage that’s jumping all around it, it’s not staying on any one voltage here.
It says if voltage is incorrect, at this point, between those, it says to replace a transformer relay assembly so, that’s going to be the issue where our washer won’t start, won’t spin, won’t agitate, just fill with water, is our transformer relay port. So I’m going to fix this, repair this, we’re going to have to replace our transformer relay.
Let’s look at how the system of switches works on a washing machine. This is one of the more common problems people have with their washers, and something that Scottsdale Appliance Masters sees on a regular basis. We hope that the information here will help you to sort through your issues yourself, but remember, we’re always just a phone call away to come and help you with any of your appliance repair needs.
First I will blow on the pressure switch hose, tripping the switch and telling the washer that it is full of water. When I open the lid switch the washer thinks that I have opened the lid and will stop agitating.
Next I will advance the washer to drain/spin portion of the cycle. If the lid switch is closed the washer will first drain the majority of water out of the tub to reduce the weight that it needs to spin. When I release the switch once, it simulates pause that is built into the timer to allow the washer to shift the drive system to spin the tub.
Now the tub spins at 500 revolutions per minute so be certain that you are clear of any moving parts before you perform this test. If your washer fills with water and then stops dead, or it fills and agitates and then stops dead, the lid switch is the most likely cause. The most accurate way to test the switch is with a volt meter.
If you have one, move the dial to the Omega symbol which means Ohms. This setting measures the ability of power to flow through to a particular part or circuit. Test the two wire terminals that are making contact with the wire colors other than green with the lid closed. The meter should give you the same reading as if you were touching the test leads together. This is called a closed circuit.
If you have the hinge activated lid switch it can be removed from the top and replaced without removing the cabinet. Simply lift the hinge to disengage the switch and replace. Also the older style lid switch can be tested without removing the cabinet. From the terminal at the top, which is under the console, attach your meter and open and close the lid.
The reading you see with the lid closed should be the same as if you are touching the meter leads together. The paddle style switch will also commonly break at the point where the two Phillips mounting screws attach the switch to the cabinet top as you can see here in this photograph. This switch will still work if manually tripped, however, it is not attached to the top so the lid pin actuator will move the entire switch, and not just the paddle, down. Sometimes the hinge bar will need to be bent slightly to make better contact with the switch. Also check to make sure that the two hinge screws that attach the hinge to the lid are tightened.
To bend the hinge or to replace the old hinge style lid switch we are going to need to remove the cabinet. To do this, remove the cabinet mounting clips. These clips attach the cabinet to the rear panel of the frame. To remove them insert the screwdriver into the front of the clip and use leverage by pushing the top of the screwdriver to the rear of the machine.
Now that our lid switch is disconnected and we’ve removed our mounting clips, grab hold of the front of the cabinet by opening the lid and tilt the cabinet away from the back of the panel. The bottom of the cabinet is hooked under the frame so pull it slightly forward. Now you’ll be better able to access the inside of the cabinet and see clearly what is the matter with your switch. You will need to have your model number ready when you call the parts dealer to get the switch style and length for your model.
If you’re replacing the older style lid switch with the lid plunger begin by removing the two Phillips head screws that attach the switch to the cabinet top. Next, from the inside of the cabinet, remove the 5/16” screw that attaches the ground wire. You need to free the harness from all the clips that are holding it to the top. And lastly, release the small tabs that secure the terminal into place with the screwdriver by pressing them towards the center of the terminal. Remove it and reinstall your new switch.
A Few Things to Remember: