I’ve got an excellent product if you are looking for long lasting way to remove odors from your refrigerator that comes from a really reliable source – my good friends at Austin Appliance Masters www.austinappliancemasters.com who spend a lot to time with their heads inside of refrigerators, so they definitely can appreciate the benefits of a good odor control solution.
The product they recently told me about is called Moso Natural. It’s a hundred percent charcoal from bamboo, so it’s safe on food, pets, kids and what’s interesting is this will remove odors from your refrigerator for two years and also excess moisture.
And very easy to apply, it comes with a little suction cup and you just stick it to the inside of the fridge and it’s that easy. It takes up very little room and it’s going to last for two years. And what’s interesting is that you can actually take this out of the fridge and put it in direct sunlight for about an hour once a month or so and it will revitalize the charcoal inside.
After two years you can just draw the date on the tag on the side of the bag and after two years you can cut it open and put it into your garden and it’s very healthy for plants. So it’s a great little product, you can pick it up at your local hardware store and if they don’t have it, they can order it for you.
Today we have here a Kenmore washing machine, this is a limited edition Kenmore type washer, and the complaint is that it will fill with water and then after it fills with water, it does nothing, it won’t agitate and also will not go into a spin cycle. We’re going to have a look at seeing exactly what’s wrong and what we can do to get things working right again.
So the tools needed for this repair are a multi meter and a Philips Screwdriver. The first thing that we’re going to do here is open up our console; take a look inside, along with our techsheet (another resource you can turn to if you need help with this kind of appliance diagnostic or repair is: http://lasvegasappliancemasters.com – they’re always super helpful). To do that, we are going to remove the Philip’s screws from the console, and our console then we can pull forward on the console and lift it up out of the cabinet, it’s on a hinge or it’s hinged so we just flip the console back like that and it shows all of our console parts here. This is where you’ll find your tech sheet which was right here.
The tech sheet has some good troubleshooting diagnostic steps so on this one here, what we have is, this problem, in the tech sheet, washer will not start. There’s also another one for, washer will not agitate or spin, you can go through either one of these. Either one that you go through should get you to the same scenario, the same part on this particular case here.
So if we follow the steps here, basically we’re going to use our multi meter and it says to, check for hundred and twenty volts between pin one and pin two on the RP3 of the transformer relay assembly, this is our transformer relay assembly, we’re going to plug back in RP2 connecter here and what we’re going to do then is to check for that hundred and twenty volts AC. Set the meter to voltage and that was pin one and pin two of the R3, this is our R3, our RP3 connection on pin one, two, one is starting at the top.
Just going to be black and white wires and we do have a hundred and twenty volts there so it’s kind of a flowchart on where to go if we have correct voltage. So after we check that for correct voltage, we’re going to check, now it wants us to check between pin one, RP3 and pin five of the RP1 connection so we’re going to go, pin one of the RP3 which was our white wire here and pin five on our RP1. On our RP1 connection which is down here, bottom one here so we’re going to go to the fifth connection, which is the last one, grey wire with, just a grey wire there.
So before what we need to do, and what is says at the very beginning here is, before we start checking any of this is depressed any one of the cycle selector paths. So back on the front of this, if we go to our cycle selector, we can select any one of these so I’m just going to put it on to a spin cycle here and we’ll continue testing.
So we’re back on, let’s see here, so we’re going back to the…that gray wire on the RP1 connection and we’re on the pin one of RP3 and we’re checking for hundred and twenty volts there. Which we do have so then, it says if the correct voltage is there, to check for seventeen to twenty one volts AC between pin one and pin two of the RP2 connection on our transformer relay assembly here, so we’re going to go to RP2 which is a small connection here, kind of a ribbon cable connection here and we’re going from pin one to pin two and we’re checking for volts, AC voltage here, so pin one, pin two and I am getting on my multi meter kind of voltage that’s jumping all around it, it’s not staying on any one voltage here.
It says if voltage is incorrect, at this point, between those, it says to replace a transformer relay assembly so, that’s going to be the issue where our washer won’t start, won’t spin, won’t agitate, just fill with water, is our transformer relay port. So I’m going to fix this, repair this, we’re going to have to replace our transformer relay.
Most walls have cavities – hollow spots created by the wall studs. There are lots of things that run through the spaces, like electrical and plumbing lines. The chances are, everything is protected so that you can nail and drill into most walls and be pretty sure that you won’t hurt a thing.
Even so, whenever you nail or drill into a wall, be careful. And if you encounter unexpected resistance, STOP. Drywall, plaster and wooden studs are pretty soft compared to steel or copper pipes. Don’t push harder on the drill. Instead, back off and investigate the resistance.
As you look at various types at hangar hardware (here are some examples from Home Depot), notice the instructions. They usually spell out the weight and dimension requirements. For lightweight objects there are a couple of choices.
You can use small finishing nails & brads that you drive in at a 45 degree angle into drywall or plaster. Hook type hangers that are held in place with a nail, or adhesive hangers.
To hang medium weight objects you need something a little sturdier. Molly anchors, or hollow wall anchors, are combination screws surrounded by casing. As the screw is tightened the casing around it collapses against the interior wall. Pre-drill a hole and insert nad turn the screw to collapse and tighten.
Toggle bolts are another type of hollow wall anchor. They have spring-loaded wings that expand inside the wall. Pre-drill a hole, remove the wing toggle from the screw and place the screw through whatever you wanna hang. Then replace the toggle and insert the assembly into the wall. Tighten the screw to pull the toggle tight against the inside the wall.
Plastic expansion plugs fit snugly into pre-drilled holes in the wall board. As you twist the screw into the plastic plug, the slatted base at the plug spreads and locks against the perimeter of the hole.
Finally, hanging very large or heavy pictures always requires anchoring the picture hanger into a stud, and you may need two or more hangers for support. You can use a stud finder to find the stud.
Hanging objects on a hollow wall takes a little more time and attention, but doing it right assures that what goes up on the wall will stay on the wall until you take it down.
Let’s look at how the system of switches works on a washing machine. This is one of the more common problems people have with their washers, and something that Scottsdale Appliance Masters sees on a regular basis. We hope that the information here will help you to sort through your issues yourself, but remember, we’re always just a phone call away to come and help you with any of your appliance repair needs.
First I will blow on the pressure switch hose, tripping the switch and telling the washer that it is full of water. When I open the lid switch the washer thinks that I have opened the lid and will stop agitating.
Next I will advance the washer to drain/spin portion of the cycle. If the lid switch is closed the washer will first drain the majority of water out of the tub to reduce the weight that it needs to spin. When I release the switch once, it simulates pause that is built into the timer to allow the washer to shift the drive system to spin the tub.
Now the tub spins at 500 revolutions per minute so be certain that you are clear of any moving parts before you perform this test. If your washer fills with water and then stops dead, or it fills and agitates and then stops dead, the lid switch is the most likely cause. The most accurate way to test the switch is with a volt meter.
If you have one, move the dial to the Omega symbol which means Ohms. This setting measures the ability of power to flow through to a particular part or circuit. Test the two wire terminals that are making contact with the wire colors other than green with the lid closed. The meter should give you the same reading as if you were touching the test leads together. This is called a closed circuit.
If you have the hinge activated lid switch it can be removed from the top and replaced without removing the cabinet. Simply lift the hinge to disengage the switch and replace. Also the older style lid switch can be tested without removing the cabinet. From the terminal at the top, which is under the console, attach your meter and open and close the lid.
The reading you see with the lid closed should be the same as if you are touching the meter leads together. The paddle style switch will also commonly break at the point where the two Phillips mounting screws attach the switch to the cabinet top as you can see here in this photograph. This switch will still work if manually tripped, however, it is not attached to the top so the lid pin actuator will move the entire switch, and not just the paddle, down. Sometimes the hinge bar will need to be bent slightly to make better contact with the switch. Also check to make sure that the two hinge screws that attach the hinge to the lid are tightened.
To bend the hinge or to replace the old hinge style lid switch we are going to need to remove the cabinet. To do this, remove the cabinet mounting clips. These clips attach the cabinet to the rear panel of the frame. To remove them insert the screwdriver into the front of the clip and use leverage by pushing the top of the screwdriver to the rear of the machine.
Now that our lid switch is disconnected and we’ve removed our mounting clips, grab hold of the front of the cabinet by opening the lid and tilt the cabinet away from the back of the panel. The bottom of the cabinet is hooked under the frame so pull it slightly forward. Now you’ll be better able to access the inside of the cabinet and see clearly what is the matter with your switch. You will need to have your model number ready when you call the parts dealer to get the switch style and length for your model.
If you’re replacing the older style lid switch with the lid plunger begin by removing the two Phillips head screws that attach the switch to the cabinet top. Next, from the inside of the cabinet, remove the 5/16” screw that attaches the ground wire. You need to free the harness from all the clips that are holding it to the top. And lastly, release the small tabs that secure the terminal into place with the screwdriver by pressing them towards the center of the terminal. Remove it and reinstall your new switch.
A Few Things to Remember:
Older washers will agitate, but not spin, with the lid open
Newer agitators will not agitate or spin with a broken lid switch
Listen for a fait click or test with a voltmeter
Hinge activated switches can be replaced from the top
Make sure there is not a problem with your hinge or plunger
Our first project is going to be hanging a door. Make sure you purchase the correct size door for the frame. Place the door in the frame. Most doors need minor alterations to get a good fit. Using two small wedges, lift the door off the floor. A 2-millimeter gap is required between the door and the frame. You can use a quarter to gauge the gap. Then, mark the inside of the door for any planing down.
Next, plane down to the pencil mark. When planing timber, only plane with the grain and never across it. Try the door at intervals so a good fit can be achieved.
Now rub the planed edge down with a medium grain glass paper. Mark the position of the hinges onto the door next. Square this across with a setsquare. Now place the hinge onto the door and draw around it with a pencil. Next you want to measure the hinge and transfer half this measurement onto the door. This is the depth at which the hinge will need to be set into the door.
Now this area of the door needs to be removed with a chisel. When using this, make sure that the flat edge or bottom is used to cut into the timber. This will give you a good straight clean edge. Also never use a hammer, only a wooden mallet.
Once the perimeter has been cut, turn the chisel over and mark off small areas to be removed. Now don’t try to cut it all out in one piece and remove small shavings of the timber. Continue this chopping until the depth you marked and then give the hinge a try. Mark the position of the screw holes onto the door with a pencil. Drill some small pilot holes because now you can fit the hinge. Why drill the pilot holes? This will stop the door from splitting when you screw on the hinge. Of course, repeat the same process with the other hinge.
Replace the door back into the frame with the hinges fitted. Mark the position of the hinge onto the doorframe this time. We will use the split pin variety of hinges, which are easy to dismantle. This is important because it allows us to easily mark the location of the hinge dimensions onto the doorframe. Mark around the edge of the hinge. Remove the marked area with a chisel and the chopping method as you did on the door. Fix half of the hinge onto the doorframe. Lift the door into place, lining up the two halves of the hinge. Replace the hinge pins and test the door.